Why leather is back, and not just for jackets: designers are creating everything from aviator jackets to elegant skirts this season Рjust look at Saint Laurent, Herm̬s, Prada, Fendi and Bottega Veneta
One of the key takeaways from the spring/summer 2025 collections - including an undeniable sense that individuality is making a comeback - is that leather is an essential component of our wardrobe.
By that time, we are referring to something beyond the item of leather clothing you normally rely on. Considering how many different versions of this fashion favourite have appeared on the runway, including aviator styles at Saint Laurent and chic bombers at Hermès, in addition to mustard-coloured overcoats at Prada, it's clear that these jackets are here to stay.
Beyond leather jackets, however, that focused more on function, there were very refined leather outfits at Jil Sander and sumptuous crocodile leather tops at Fendi. One could find leather trench coats at LaQuan Smith and at Prada; in a collection that sought to defy conformity in fashion, the leather swimsuits and harnesses were particularly striking.
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Meanwhile, at Bottega Veneta, Matthieu Blazy - who would later be named creative director at Chanel - experimented with the house's unmistakable leather creations. This season, he featured large leather patchwork shirts in a deep burgundy snake print and orange-colored snakeskin leather pencil skirts adorned with tassels that rustled as the models walked.
Let's not forget that this was the man who created a leather check shirt and leather trousers that resembled jeans - no one has played with leather like an optical illusion quite like Blazy. Actress Michelle Yeoh wore an intricately woven leather shirt from the label at the spring/summer 2023 show in Milan.
Nadège Vanhee, Hermès' women's wear creative director, explored the sensual quality of leather on the skin by combining supple leather with filmy, sheer separates. Another notable aspect was Tod's reimagining of leather. A tactile approach to elegance was achieved with blouson leather T-shirts paired with leather trousers and pleated leather maxi skirts. The overall feeling of this collection was one of allure and ease. A woman in leather separates exudes an air of sophistication, yet also conveys confidence. The season's prevailing feeling was that a woman in leather - a material that adds depth and contrast - is always an interesting and compelling sight.
Hailey Bieber and Gigi Hadid are among the fans of The Frankie Shop, a Parisian fashion label created by GaElle Drevet, who notes that incorporating leather details can instantly elevate an ordinary outfit.
One wonderful aspect of leather, in her opinion, is its incredible versatility.
It's a straightforward truth that leather has a certain shine to it and can instantly elevate even the most ordinary outfit; it conveys a sense of confidence and authority. Whether it's a tailored leather blouse or pencil skirt, these leather pieces make a statement and are simple to pair for both daytime and evening wear,
Similar to all its designs - be it a relaxed, box-shaped jacket or a pair of pleated tailored shorts - The Frankie Shop infuses a unique twist into its leather and faux leather items. On its website, it has a "leather texture" section, and Drevet enjoys making leather pieces that are unconventional - think scarves, shirts or hot pants.
Drevet prefers that her leather items have bold shapes, however she likes to balance them with a range of earthy colours to create what she thinks is an essential balance in the look.
The key is to let the leather be the focal point. The rest of the outfit should be understated, such as pairing the leather with a plain T-shirt and loafers, to create a sense of balance and not overwhelm with too many details.
Clearly, not all leathers have the same level of quality, which also applies to synthetic ones. Sandra Sándor, founder of the Hungarian fashion brand Nanushka, has registered a trademark for her exceptionally soft alternative leather, Okobor, which is the hallmark of her label.
For Sandor, texture plays a crucial role. She appreciates combining denim with leather for this reason, such as a denim jacket with an Okobor collar. The instant allure that a leather piece can add is something Sandor particularly enjoys.
"The moment you add a leather jacket to an outfit, it immediately gives the entire look a more polished and sophisticated feel," she notes.
I often do this with blazers and jackets, which I pair with a relatively simple and classic attire of jeans and a T-shirt. Our Hathi blazer is one of my favorites for elevating a toned-down look.
For Margie Woods, the founder and creative director of Australian fashion label Viktoria & Woods, leather jackets outshine all of the brand's other leather pieces.
"We hypothesize that this style trend is successful because, in addition to boosting individuals' confidence and style, it allows them to pair the pieces seamlessly with any outfit... Furthermore, we're now spotting these items paired with more defined bottom silhouettes, such as a pencil skirt and a fitted leather jacket tied at the waist," she observes.
A standout item for the brand is its chocolate brown leather shirt - partly because, in her opinion, it can be styled in numerous ways. Woods also thinks that customers view leather as a valuable and long-lasting purchase.
At first, we thought customers would be sensitive to price, but we've found that if the customer feels the item is versatile and on-trend, they're willing to invest. We're big fans of layering at Viktoria & Woods, and we believe that styling pieces, such as a polo neck underneath and a coat over the top, adds depth and visual interest.
Despite this, Woods doesn't believe that one should be rigid in selecting how leather pieces are worn.
"There are no set guidelines for how leather separates should be styled - it's more about experimenting with various options and selecting a combination that complements the wearer's body shape and personal taste," she says.
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